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Read about me in the

541-238-2288

View slide show of my work HERE

Sharpening Services
~ Wildfire Cutlery ~

     I sharpen kitchen knives, of all sizes and materials, as long as they have a curve to their edge. This curve is called a ‘sweep’, and as long as your knife has even the slightest sweep, I will sharpen it.  I will grind/buff/polish the edge back to razor sharpness, no matter what the bevel was before I started. You will get back a knife whose edge is polished to 650 grit. In this case, edge means as far up the knife that I have to go, so that there is a smooth consistent transition from above the edge ‘zone’ right down to the 'micro-bevel' edge.
    If the flat of the knife ( the area above the edge ‘zone’ ) needs cleaning up, then that will cost extra depending on it’s condition. Once I receive the blade, I will be able to let you know options before I send you an invoice. Other than this, best practice is to scan the blade or take a jpeg ( compress it please ) and send it to me. If the marring of the surface of the blade is slight, and you want it polished, the charge will be nominal depending on it’s condition and size of the blade. Each job is unique. This 'area' is above the whereI would need to work on to get the edge razor sharp.
     I can also copy your knife or replace it’s handle. Each piece is unique and charged according to the estimated work involved. To view some examples of reconstructing old knives ,← click here.

    Mailing form as .doc (fill, e-mail or print)  | Mailing form as pdf (not savable, print it out and fill it in)

Basic cost -   **remember to add shipping/handling to amount

A - If the blade is 7” or less and not more than 2.5” wide - $ 5.00

B - If the blade is over 7” long and not more than 2.5” wide, the price is the basic cost ($5.00),
plus $1 per inch over that.

For example -  9” blade, 2.5" or less in width = $5.00 basic cost as per A above,  (first 7 inches)
plus 2" at $1 per inch = $ 7.50

C - Knives wider than 2.5” or are serrated,  is $1.00 per inch.

For example - a cleaver 4” wide and 8” long, will cost $ 12.
Example 2 - 10" serrated knife = 10 x $1.50 = $ 15

Paying - 2 basic ways to pay

   Pay with pay Pal

    Pay Pal processes my transactions. I will invoice you once I get the knives, for the sharpening, plus shipping and handling.
     If your a Pay Pal member, then simply pay the invoice. Include your e-mail address.
     If your not a Pay Pal member, and do not want to join then you can pay the invoice using your credit card, and only need to offer up your zip code.
  

    Pay by Check/Money Order - **all checks made to M. Lishinsky , only

     If you want to include a check or money order in the box, you can figure cost plus shipping. Best idea if you can is to take open package to post office and either include a check once you know the cost or send me a check in an envelope separately. Contact me and let me know your shipping a package.
    You can also just send the package, I can invoice you and you can send the check later. No work can be shipped until the check clears.
    I accept cash as well.

Shipping: ( ** PLEASE, let me know, if your shipping knives to me, so I can look for them )
I have shipped over 10,000 knives and tools I have made, so I know that the package weighs a pound and each knife weighs a pound. →Here is a word .doc that has USPS zones and cost to ship priority←. Look up your zone ( I am in zone 1 ) and figure the weight and then cost to ship priority. Medium size flat rate boxes cost $11. Every post office has free boxes, just ask. These boxes can be re-used. It usually takes 3 days.
     If you send me knives and do not insure them when they are sent to me, I will not insure them when sent back to you. If your knives cost a lot, insure them. You should find out about insurance ( as per this page - click ) . Make sure you can prove what you paid for them. If your knives are very old and no receipt exists, call the USPS. With all insurance, know what your buying.
  If your packaging is re-usable on my end, the charge is $5 for handling. Add this to cost.
  If your packaging is not re-usable, the charge is $10 for handling.
    I usually ship USPS. They come right to my door and pick up packages. If you want me to mail the package back to you using UPS or Fed Ex , then there will be a $5 surcharge, as I will have to drive the package over to their store. I do not have accounts with them, so they will not come to my home.
    Now, if you have an account with FedEx or UPS, and you arrange ahead of time,. for them to pick up the package from me,  then the surcharge is waived. The arrangements for pick up and a label from your account , have to be done on your end fully, to avoid the surcharge. Most folks just put it in the box or have UPS deliver one.
   Shipping knives takes a small amount of thinking, to make sure your knives are delivered in the condition you packed them in, and that they did not cut anyone on their route. Knife points that are left unprotected, will surely poke through the box and can harm someone. So please read on.
     Personally I bury the tips of the knives I ship, in a cork, and tape it on with masking tape. Then I wrap it in layers of newspaper to protect it’s edge , and lastly tape it securely closed.  Another method is below. Never send me unprotected knives, because if they arrive and the point is sticking out of the box, I will not accept the package.

How to make a sleeve for a knife for mailing

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Above: I am using a postal box, but any box will due. if you intend to keep the sleeve for re-use or use such as traveling or re-send it to me, then by all means take the time to get a hold of a regular thick-ish box. I believe it is called bi-wall or it has 2-layers. Just a regular box.

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Above: Simple layout. No need for ruler, just eyeball it

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Above: For a rough measure, place blade on cardboard and make the width twice the blades width and about 1" longer. Notice that the brass bolster will have the cardboard resting on it, to prevent the pint from getting exposed in shipping. I trimmed off the excess on top.

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Above: Just before taping. Best tape is duck tape, but masking or scotch is fine, also.

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Above: Knife edge goes on the die that was folded.

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Above: Sleeve in place, secure against the bolster with both the edge and the tip in place. Once I get this, it is as easy as kiss my hand to re-use.

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Above: Always put a bit of tape that will hold the sleeve onto the handle. I still would wrap this in newspaper.